Ryan here. Katie's in Washington DC on business this week - so I'm resuming my blogging duties. Last weekend we made our final trek to Mt Rainier in preparations for the real deal summit attempt now only 3 weeks away! As usual we lucked out in terms of weather - it was gorgeous.
This trip was was more than just hiking to Camp Muir. Saturday night we met inside the Paradise Inn at 7PM to talk gear before an evening stroll. Everyone was to have brought all the gear that is necessary for the summit attempt - helmet, harness, ice axe, and crampons. Lucky for us we already had the axe and helmet from the Alpine Scrambling course, also Katie had two harnesses and two pairs of crampons (that we've never used). We were set! So after the briefing the group ventured only a short distance up the slope - still in sight of Paradise - where we geared up. Harness first, then crampons, then threw the helmet on and grabbed the ice axe.
Our fearless leader Mark had set up a series of wands for us to navigate like downhill skiing gates while roped up in teams of 6. For most of us this was a new concept, but it wasn't rocket science. You keep the rope on the downhill side of you, that is until you turn around a gate. Right before turning you step over the slack in front of you, putting the rope on your uphill side, then you turn - putting the rope back where it belongs on the downhill side. That's the process we'll be using above Camp Muir when we're roped up in teams. This was an early look at how things would run up high.
And for Katie and I it went swimmingly, but for a few people it took a little getting used to. The part that was new to us - the crampons - also went swimmingly. They fit the boots perfectly and weren't as awkward to walk in as we suspected. All in all we slowly snaked our way up the roughly 200' slope, and then back down, and called it a night. Along the way it finally got pretty dusky, allowing us to briefly use our headlamps. And to top it off we spotted a couple of foxes scurrying about in the snow too (no pics, sorry)!
After a good night's sleep at the Paradise Inn, we geared up the next morning for basically a carbon copy of our last trip up Mt Rainier to Camp Muir. We did a few things differently this time, some personal, some as a group. Personally, I made sure to rest a few minutes, allowing the sweat to evaporate and then also blot any remaining sweat off before re-applying sunscreen. And this worked, because I didn't show any signs of sun after the trip (unlike last time). Also, both Katie and I were fully loaded with all the gear I previously mentioned plus all the regular stuff. So we did this hike with the same weight we'll carry to Camp Muir on the big day. Above Camp Muir, however, we will be a little lighter, leaving our hydration reservoirs, iPods, and sleeping bags behind. Full of food and water, our packs were a tad beyond 40 lbs. Above Muir it'll be more like 30-35.
The going in plan was to keep the entire group intact all the way to Camp Muir and for all intents and purposes we did! Everyone in the group made it to Camp Muir (that didn't happen last time). I stayed near the back of the pack, and in the last 1,000' especially, I walked with two of our teammates from our specific climb date cheering them on and making sure they didn't give up. The group made it to Camp Muir in a little over 5 hours, a little longer than last time, but the slowest in the group (3 people behind me) made it in only 5 minutes behind, much faster than the slowest group last time. So great progress!
Also of note was running into two co-workers of mine on the mountain. While sitting around during our first rest stop lo and behold I saw a familiar figure approaching through the mist with long flowing red locks. "Russ Lecompte?" I shouted. "Younko!" he responded. It was Russ allright. Russ and I actually talk a lot about outdoor activities but we've never done any together for no reason in particular. Russ was using his skins to ski up while his friend Billy carried his downhill skis. We met again at Camp Muir for some lunch.
The way down was a little slower than last time, taking a little over 2.5 hours vs only 2.0 hours last time. Still pretty fast and we were able to keep the whole group together. To top off an awesome day was a stop at Sonic in Puyallup on the way home for dinner! I love Sonic, and that is the closest one to where we live - over an hour and a half away. Now that's a good way replenshish those burned calories!
Camp Muir with Climb For Clean Air Team
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
June 13th we made or first ascent to Camp Muir. The day was just about perfect. The morning started out so leisurely since we stayed at Paradise Inn with our new friends Naisha and Gavin, the night before the hike. When you don't have to get up early, rush around getting your stuff ready and drive 3 hours to get to the trailhead, a smile is a lot easier to wear. In fact, the start of the day was just one blessing of many for the day. I am still smiling about the sun, the company of the team, and how awesome I felt when we reached Camp Muir. The following pictures will help you to understand how much we enjoyed our day.
The CFCA team in line at the start. We saw a few Marmots at the beginning of the hike.
Mt Adams behind the Tatoosh Range
The team taking in the view of Mt. St Helens behind them and re-applying sunscreen
The team climbing up the first steep ascent - The Chute
Happiness = On Mt. Rainier, Sunshine, Together, Hiking, The Views
Branca in the red tights (Oldest woman to Climb Rainier and did it in 19 hours!) She is an amazing woman, a true inspiration to have with us on the mountain today. This was her first hike on the mountain since her husband's passing the week before. Like I said a true inspiration!
Clouds coming in as we climb. This is the last push before reaching Camp Muir.
We made it Camp Muir, 10,600ft! We both felt great, the climb was tough but all the training is paying off. The day was beautiful, the company was great and we will be back in two weeks to do it again!
Naisha - See you there!
Final Alpine Scrambling Field Trip - Bean Peak
Friday, June 11, 2010
It's Ryan. I'm almost carrying my weight with the blogging now...almost. This installation features our final alpine scrambling field trip with the Mountaineers. But don't let the "field trip" nomenclature fool you, this was pretty much just a normal scramble. As our instructors told us "we're just here to check your skills and criticize you as necessary..." Brad did really say that, but he was joking. Brad accompanied his wife Gay as a leader this time - Gay was our leader on the snow field trip and we really enjoyed her. It was on Gay's demonstration that Katie made the trash compacter glissading pants! We also had the pleasure of grouping up with some new friends Cynthia and Will, who we have met and hiked with throughout the course.
The hike was up the Teanaway River north of Cle Elum, bracketing to the south "The Enchantments" area, which we had previously bracketed to the north during our rock field trip off Icicle Creek near Leavenworth. This was the first trip up the Teanaway for both Katie and I, and it was about time. After about a 2.5 hour drive we reached the trailhead, chock-full of eager Mountaineers. Our destination as we would only discover a moment before leaving was "Bean Peak." Interestingly enough, Bean Peak is unnamed on both Green Trails and USGS maps, but luckily our instructors filled us in on the summit altitude, so we were off at 8:45AM.
After only about a mile up Bean Creek Trail we were forced to perform a stream crossing. For both Katie and I, this was (surprisingly, I think) the first time either of us had been forced to remove our boots to cross a stream. Nobody was particularly psyched about this, and as we found out, appropriately so - because man it was cold!!!
But once on the other side after some clean up, the boots were back on and we were on our way. The weather was crystal clear, at least to start the day, and temps were just perfect - crisp in the sunshine about 50 degrees. About two miles in we had to finally break trail and actually begin "scrambling" towards Bean Peak.
It was largely a group effort in route-finding, but we also did a good job of rotating folks through the leader role. At about 11AM we finally hit the snow, and it was time to show off our snow skills.
The terrain continued to to its steepest pitch just before gaining the ridge where we caught our first glimpse of the Stuart Range (The Enchantments).
From this point all that was left was about 500 feet elevation of real-deal rock scrambling to the top. This is the stuff that really truly requires all 4 appendages and an honest answer to the self-addressed question "can I get down this safely?" For me I was in my element, this is the type of "hiking" I've done repeatedly in Colorado while hiking "14ers". I took what I thought was a bit more of a sketchy route but I slipped right up to the summit in no time and got right to business - eating, and taking in the incredible view! A few minutes later Katie joined me at the top and we got a great picture with Mt Stuart in the background.
It was about 1:15PM now, and still a gorgeous mostly sunny day. You could even see Rainier - but only partially cloaked in fair-weather cumulous clouds.
The way down the peak's rocky top was very slow going and I tried my best to stay right with Katie and help her down over those big gaps. But of course she had no trouble, and before you knew it we had reached the snow field. Time for self arrests! I love self arrests, but alas most folks - like Katie - aren't thrilled with it. To get it over with we started with the craziest fall situation - head first on your back! A total of 6 trips down and back up - and it was finally time for something everyone could agree was a good time - glissading! We probably got in a good 500' of solid glissading before it was back to a bit of bushwacking, and finally back on trail, and then back at the creek. With no hesitation Katie deftly slipped across the creek without removing her boots, as planned, while I had second thoughts about rolling the last mile of the trail in soaked boots. Ultimately I said to heck with it and followed in Katie's footsteps.
Back to the parking lot it was about 5PM.
Round Trip: 8 miles
Vertical Climb: 3,300'
Best part of the trip was the amazing views of The Enchantments.
Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling Field Trips: Complete!
This Sunday we'll be heading to Camp Muir (10,060ft) on Mt. Rainier with The Climb for Clean Air team, then the following weekend we'll make an attempt at Mt Adams. The weekend after that, we'll do our night hike on Mt. Rainier followed up by another hike to Camp Muir the next day. That'll take us through the end of June. Stay tuned for the stories and the pictures.
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